Delightfully surprised by Steytlerville

 

 

 Chantelle The Tour Guide - www.facebook.com/ChantelleTheTOURGUIDE

 

On a wintery morning we set out to see the treasures of Steytlerville, a little Karoo town at the foot of the Baviaanskloof Mountains in the Eastern Cape.  Not really knowing what to expected, we told ourselves – Local is lekker and well, we loved the weekend.

 

The first night we spoiled ourselves with a grand theatrical experience at Grimaldi’s Theatre, Karroo Hotel.  The theatre is named after the mascot of the Hotel, a little fluffy dog.  But imagine our delight, all dressed in drag, to be treated to the best Cabaret performance in the Eastern Cape – I must admit, I haven’t seen better in all my years visiting the Grahamstown Festival.  The pianist - Fredy Ferrari stole our hearts.  Trust me - seeing the Steyterville Follies is a must!

 

 

The famous potter Martin Haines (with bow-tie) from Nieu-Bethesda & a friend - http://www.nieubethesda.biz/martin.html 

 

The Karroo Hotel offers en-suite accommodation & is within walking distance of town (prohibition many moons ago dictated that a venue serving alcohol should be situated 3km from the Dutch Reformed Church) hence the current location of the hotel. 

Strolling along the main street of Steytlerville, lined with family coats of arms, bright & cheerful in the cold wintery breeze, we headed to Pegasus Early Motoring Museum – having been told by a friend that visiting this vintage car museum is something out of this world.  We first enjoyed beautifully decorated chocolate cake (a piece of heaven actually) served by Michele Prinsloo , wife of Jurie Prinsloo, who meticulously restores each car & who proudly boasts with one of the only two Ford Model C’s to be found in South Africa.

Rugby fever drove us to the Royal Hotel to watch the Springbucks play.  In the cozy pub we encountered the locals – jovial & cheerful encouraging their team & here I learnt for the first time that a few kilometres from town a very unique excursion is on offer – One can experience the delight, fear and exhilaration of seeing cheetahs hunt, whilst walking alongside them in the veld. 

 

 

A few weeks later I returned, having organized the cheetah encounter.  Steytlerville was colder & the sun was barely up when we stepped onto the stoep of the farmhouse – eager to see cheetahs hunt.    

Our guide drove along a bumpy road, stopping before two large cheetah enclosures.  We stood near the vehicle as the two cheetahs – brothers both about 5 years old – were let out of their camp. Holding our breaths, these majestic animals walked right passed us, tame and ready to hunt. We followed them in single file – heart-racing, a little fearful and jittery with anticipation.  They stop.  We stop.  I saw them stalk a heard of Impala – way too early they mock charge and the herd dispersed.  The cheetah sat and watch as the Impala disappeared over the horizon and then finally they laid down to catch their breath.  We followed them as they attempted hunting a Kudu, a Zebra & then finally (6 hours in) they killed a Mountain Rheedbuck.     

The kill happened very fast.  We saw the one cheetah heading up the hill, the other cheetah charged down the hill, splitting the herd of Moutain Rheedbuck.  The one cheetah caught up with a Rheedbuck ewe at the bottom of the hill and with one decisive bite put her down and starting gorging at the hindquarters.  This is not for the fainted hearted!

But the best is yet to come, the guide & other participants took the Rheedbuck’s legs & started dragging the buck back to the cheetah living quarters – They are only allowed to feed in their enclosure.  It is quite a sight seeing two cheetahs follow two men dragging their food.  No wonder the Robert Mills (from Graaff-Reinet) kept looking over his shoulder to see if these beasts will not devour him in order to get to their food.  But tame as anything they followed them home & ate once there.  Steytlerville was a delightful surprise – offering experience that are unique, exhilarating & fun.  If you’re looking for a fun weekend – head up the R75 towards Wolwefontein & turn left towards Steytlerville – you’ll be discussing the town at dinner parties for weeks to come!

For more information on the cheetah experience & for those interested in participating contact Buks Marais – 082 579 1789  or send enquries to info@camdeboocottages.co.za Visit their website www.camdeboocottages.co.za/index.php/walk-with-cheetah – They also offer Baviaanskloof 4x4 adventures – My next weekend away!!!

Written by Chantelle The Tour Guide - www.facebook.com/ChantelleTheTOURGUIDE

My entry for the Travelstart Blogger Experience Contest page - http://www.travelstart.co.za/blog/blogger-experience-contest  #Competition #PleasePickMe #HopeIwin #Greatprize

Meet Oom Gideon

“	As ons gevra word waarom ʼn gedenksteen in 1978 opgerig moet word vir ʼn man wat in 1902 gesterf het is die antwoord eenvoudig. Die lewe en wese van hierdie man was van so ’n aard dat die geskiedenis hom in die heldesaal geplaas het en niks en niemand kan hom dit ontneem nie.	”
— Former Prime Minister, John Vorster

 

GideonScheepers was buried in an unknown grave about 3km outside of Graaff-Reinet.

During the Anglo Boer War, at the meager age of 22, Comdt Gideon Scheepers was promoted to leader of 150 men, known as the Witkoppen Commando – named for the white ribbens they wore on their hats. 

Today, a mere 3 km outside the Karoo town of Graaff-Reinet, one finds the interesting monument in honour of Gideon Scheepers.  The tar road leading to Murraysburg, has numerous travelers en-route to the Valley of Desolation, passing by this site.   

Comdt Gideon Scheepers was one of the Boer commando leaders during the Anglo Boer War.  He was sent to the Cape Midlands from Transvaal with his commando to try & hinder the transport of provisions sent from the UK.  The provisions were shipped to Algoa Bay (today Port Elizabeth) and then transported by train northwards.  Near the end of the war he fell ill (due to his appendix) & this resulted in him being captured.  He was executed on the 18th of January 1902 at 15:30pm on the Murraysburg road. He was too sick to stand during the execution & had to be tied to a chair. 

There is parking at the monument & the short walking route offers beautiful views of the Nqweba Dam.

Interesting to note – there is only an Afrikaans entry of Wikipedia available on him.

 

 

Meet Oom Andries

Andries Pretorius is quoted saying to Sir HarrySmith – “One day a wheel will indeed roll across our world & neither you nor I will be able to stop it.”

 

Today Graaff-Reinet proudly boasts that Andries Pretorius set off on this Great Trek van Graaff-Reinet. He was one of the main leaders of the Voortrekkers during the 1830’s. A large group of Trekboere under his leadership decided to move from the Graaff-Reinet area northwards.

 

The monument in honour of Andries Pretorius is situated a mere 5km outside of Graaff-Reinet on the Middleburg road (N9), one has to enter the Camdeboo National Park main gate to get access to this beautiful sandstone monument.

 

Coert Steynberg (the sculptor) depicted Pretorius looking north - the direction the Trekboere headed towards. His left hand is resting on the wagon wheel, bound to the earth. The head of oxen symbolizes that the trek wouldn’t have been possible without these majestic beasts that helped the Trekboere cross rivers & mountains. The Trekboere headed north without any topographical maps or knowledge of what lay beyond the horizon, only with sheer determination & a will of finding their own land to govern.

 

The now famous metropole of Tshwane, previously Pretoria was named in honour of him. Pretorius is well-remembered for yearning for independence & striving to get the independent republic of Transvaal acknowledged by the British.

 

 

My Karoo - Visit Us & see why I love living here!

Visit the Karoo and experience the delights of exploring the unknown.

The Karoo is the new catch phrase in South Africa – Everyone wants to see the Karoo, taste it, buy it, even sadly frack it. (Frack is slang for Hydraulic Fracturing)

For many years numerous explorers made their way through this vast area that was synonymous with hardship & poverty. Today it’s a traveller’s dream.

But what does Karoo mean? According to Wikipedia - The Karoo (a Khoisan word of uncertain etymology) is a semi-desert natural region of South Africa. For those living in the Karoo, it means the peace & quite they wake with every morning, the beautiful sunsets, the endless night sky & the good food. The Karoo people are truly hospitable & friendly. Every meal with a local is coupled with interesting stories. City-dwellers & visitors from abroad all migrate to the Karoo for relaxation – to experience the vastness, take time out & relax & just marvel at the sheer stillness the area is known for.

Do you know that nearly 50% of the world population can’t see stars in the evening due to too much light pollution? Visit the Karoo & marvel at the night sky. There is the Southern Cross that guided the Portuguese discovers years ago & the Milky Way that still amazes people night after night. Hear the stories of how Orion & the scorpion are never seen together in the night sky … mix in a glass of red wine whilst discussing Greek mythology & finally just become absorbed by the stillness of the night.

The Karoo is a place one is often left in solitude, travelling the endless roads, merging with the horizon, seeing windmill upon windmill wondering why the Trekboere – the first Europeans, settled in the area. But the answer is still remains the same today – they found a place they could toil the land, raise a family & be content. It’s the essence of the Karoo – contentness.

There are numerous little towns one can visit in the Karoo, but the “Gem of the Karoo” is Graaff-Reinet. A Karoo town surrounded by the Camdeboo National Park - 19 500 ha of veld – covering plains with herds of Springbuck, Gemsbuck & Cape Buffalo, Mountain valleys lush with spekboom (foliage) & teaming with Kudu & mountain tops offering visitors vistas of the Camdeboo Plains. Be prepared to be amazed by the sights & sounds of the Karoo.



The views form the Valley of Desolation a mere 17km from Graaff-Reinet, has rendered most visitors speechless. The most amazing sunset, whilst the last rays of the sun saturates the rock pillars in a deep oxidized red.



Graaff-Reinet is home to over 220 Heritage Sites. From the beautiful Dutch Reformed Church to the simple Karoo style cottages, that Graaff-Reinet is famous for, one gets the distinct impression that the people of the Karoo are proud of their heritage.

Recommended places to visit include:

• Reinet House Museum – Parsonage of Rev. Andrew Murray
• The Hester Rupert Art Museum that boasts with a wonderful collection of South African art – Painting by Maggie Loubser & Ernst de Jongh.
• The biggest succulent nursery in the Southern Hemisphere – Obesa Nursery
• Historical Streets restored in their entirety – Parsonage Street, Stretch Court - all proudly boasting with broekielace verandahs.

What the Karoo however is most remembered for is the food. Good Food.

Just to tickle the taste buds – Kudu Steak marinated in red wine served with mash potatoes & a pepper sauce. Springbuck Fillet, tender & juicy coupled with a good bottle of red wine & then of course the lamb. It is the Karoo lamb that everyone always talks about – oven-roasted to perfection served with mint sauce, vegetables & roasted potatoes. Mouthwatering stuff!!!

Polka Restaurant, situated in the heart of historical Graaff-Reinet, has a courtyard to relax in & an antique store to browse in whilst you wait for your meal. Coldstream Restaurant, next to the Graaff-Reinet Club (Formerly referred to as the men’s club I have you know!) has an array of Karoo delights but their speciality is a trio of steak – beef, springbuck & ostrich.

Lamb, well the best lambpotjie in the Karoo is to be found at Karoopark Guest House – This accommodation establishment boasts with a restaurant known for its local cuisine. Don’t forget to have the Withond (moonshine locally distilled). The owners Buks & Louise Marais have such an interesting tale to tell about the drink & it doubles as an informal introduction to the history of the town. A must!

Accommodation is plentiful but if you want to stay in a monument – enjoy the Karoo-style cottages of Camdeboo Cottages

The true uniqueness of the Karoo lies in palaeontology. Fossils are found in the farmlands, taking visitors back 300 000 million years. This arid region once teamed with fish, shells & dinosaur. This is now nearly unthinkable as one stares at the vast semi-dessert plains the Karoo is synonymous with. Roam & explore the area, hear experts tell of the Kitching Fossil discoveries in the area, see first-hand fossils on farms, still embedded in ridges or cliffs. Whilst you’re out & about visit the Bushmen paintings to be found in the district of Nieu-Bethesda, an artistic town situated about 60km north of Graaff-Reinet. The town is nestled at the foot of Compassberg, the highest peak in the Eastern Cape (worth a climb if you have time – sightings of black eagle are guaranteed!)

Nieu-Bethesda is well-known for The Owl House – a museum now, but once the house of a recluse, Helen Martins. Offering the visitor insight into her artistic world of glass & cement statues. The 2 Goat’s Deli also in Nieu-Bethesda, offers visitors home-brewed beer & home-made goats cheese with freshly baked bread & delicious relishes. Visit the numerous galleries in town – noteworthy is Charmaine Haines - Ware on Earth Studio There are a handful of places that serve lunch, so take your time and explore the dusty streets, visit a few more artists’ studios and if there’s space in the car, buy an owl. For the children there is a local, Johannes, that takes families on a donkeycart ride, telling them the history of the area (such a treat!).

In the Graaff-Reinet region kids will enjoy Noah’s Arc, a touch farm situated a mere 5km south of Graaff-Reinet. Interacting with a tame Springbuck & a tame zebra is such a novelty for a child. They’ll enjoy themselves whilst getting introduces to the animals most commonly found in the Karoo.

Another must is a visit to the local Graaff-Reinet township – Umazisakhe – where your guide, Ntombi, will take you about & share stories on the Xhosa Culture – their customs & marriage traditions. She’ll discuss the houses referred to as the Royal Block (built during the Anglo Boer War) & tell of the activist Robert Sobukwe (founder of the PAC) that grew up in the Graaff-Reinet district.

After days of exploring the region, one deserves a good cup of coffee – Blue Magnolia, a nursery serving Illy coffee, offers a tranquil setting to relax & meet the locals. Blue Magnolia t is situated just left of the majestic Dutch Reformed Church in Church Street, Graaff-Reinet. It has home-made cakes & nougat treats, freshly brewed coffee & an array of curios from the region. Sit on the veranda as the sun settles on another day, see the little traffic the town has (note that there is not a single traffic light)& then go off in search of yet another Karoo delight.

Come & stay in Graaff-Reinet - enjoy your holiday in my hometown & I promise you, you’ll have a lifetime of memories.

P.S. if you need a guide whilst you’re travelling the Karoo – Chantelle The Tour Guide – will gladly assist you. Follow Chantelle The Tour Guide on Facebook or email her chantellemarais@yahoo.com

For more information on Flight prices / specials / accommodation in the Karoo – enquire at grt@gotravel.co.za

Autumn in the Karoo

Autumn is a magical time, colours that amazes me & a stillness that settles on the Karoo. Visiting the Valley of Desolation is a magical place, but in autumn the crisp air & hues of colours make it every more memorable. For more information on the Valley of Desolation - visit Camdeboo Cottages' website on what to do & see in & around Graaff-Reinet.